Tampilkan postingan dengan label Simple. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label Simple. Tampilkan semua postingan

10 Simple Steps to a Boat Frame

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When I read other boat building blogs, Im always a little embarrassed for myself. Other builders shops are so clean, their joints so perfect, the tools shiny and brand-name. You wont find much of that over here on Building Luna. As mentioned earlier, I have a rather down home (see Urban Dictionary) boat building style. I still feel pretty unsophisticated in the world of boat builders.

On the bright side, I guess I dont allow myself to feel intimidated by all the builders doing stuff the "proper way." This isnt rocket science. Take, for example, the frame I built on Monday (the last one!!):
Step 1: This here is the frame building table-- just plywood underlay screwed to an IKEA platform bed frame that my mattress used to be on. The mattress has been on my bedroom floor for the duration of frame construction-- the likely cause of my many intimate encounters with insects over the past 6 months (see Giant Millipede Incident of 2012)




Step 2: Draw in the frames using measurements from the table of  offsets. Note roof tar, sawdust, and regular dirt dust. 
Step 3: Screw some blocks to the table at your frame lines to butt the frames up against. Most plans are drawn to the outside of the planking.  These blocks are the width of my planking so I dont have to worry about that detail while assembling the frame. 


Step 4: Get frame lumber. I milled the 2 x 4s needed for the frames out of this gorgeous 8/4 rough rift sawn white oak that I snagged for cheap in Austin. 

Step 5: Cut the frame lumber. The angles at the butts are easily taken from the lines drawn on the table. Note from the picture in Step 2 that the bevels on the frames are sawed before assembly. I took these angles from the lines plan. While they are probably "shallower" than what Ill need, itll make beveling the standing frames less of a pain.

Step 6: Soak the joints that will not be glued with copper napthanate.

Step 7:  While I do make some effort to get the joints to fit nicely, Its not important to me to get them perfect where no one will see them. I smear them with roof tar.

The poor boat builders dolphinite. $27 for a 5 gallon bucket.
Step 8: Smoosh the butt joints together and liberally apply a waterproof adhesive where the gusset will go.
Step 9: Temporarily screw on the gussets while the glue dries (the screws will later be replaced with bolts).
Step 10: Screw on some temporary cross-braces to make sure the frame maintains its  shape until the planking goes on. Done!

Actually, this probably wasnt the best frame to document here on the blog. Its construction was a bit atypical. Normally, gussets go on front and back side of the frame . Initially, they get clamped on and holes are drilled through the whole thing for bolts. Then everything gets diassembled, and glue is applied to the gussets. Finally, the whole thing is bolted together and cinched tight. Still pretty easy peasy.

The frame shown above is different from the norm because the floor at this particular station is high enough that it will serve as the gussett on the back side of the frame. I temporarily screwed on the front-side gusset until the frame gets clamped to the floor, then Ill drill for bolts when I know exactly where the floor will hit the frame.

Cant wait to add it to Lunas growing body!


After I finished building the last frame, I marked all of the frame gussets where the chine notches need to be cut with a handsaw.
Im hoping to convince Ramon to make this job part of his daily workout.


Its nice to know that even the professionals sometimes make do with what they have.
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A Simple Sailing Canoe

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Like most of us I have collected a vast number of plans over the years, almost as though having the plans or offsets gives one the possibility of building the boat if required, and that having that possibility is almost as good as having the actual boat.

In 1980 I was reading, among other books, L. Francis Herreshoffs "The Compleat Cruiser" and John Leathers nice little book "Sail and Oar". In "The Compleat Cruiser" is a print of the lines of Francis Herreshoffs interpretation of what he called, a "Rob Roy" double-paddle canoe. What she is, is a half-decked kayak which is wider and shorter than a conventional kayak, and with greater freeboard than normal. She is what Phil Bolger called, "...a canoe-like boat...". Her dimensions were 14 LOA x 26" beam and with a draft of 5-1/4". I found her lines to be absolutely captivating then, and still do today. I hope that one day I may be able to work out how to draw something as beautiful....


John Leathers book re-ignited my interest in sailing canoes at about the same time, and I dreamed of having a sailing canoe with lines similar to the Herreshoff boat.

In mid 1987 (I think) I can remember the excitement I felt when I discovered the existence of Iain Oughtreds plans for the sailing canoe, MacGregor in a copy of Woodenboat Magazine (or the store catalogue). She is a 31"-wide glued-lapstrake sailing canoe which can be built with a length of either 13 7", 15 8", or 173". I believe that in subsequent editions of the plans, Iain Oughtred only recommends up to 15 8" LOA. Other options included open or half-decked configurations, and a choice of a cat-rig or a cat-ketch rig. I immediately ordered a set of plans, and finally started building 1991.

                                    

At the time of building I was living a hectic life, trying to balance full-time work as an Air Traffic Controller with the responsibilities of helping to bring up our three small sons. This did not leave much time for experimentation with the finished boat, and over the years she received only intermittent use, although she did prove to be a capable sea-boat under paddle-power, having once carried me on a 41 kilometre saltwater journey in 25 knots of wind.

I never did have the proper sail(s) made, but rigged her with the sail off a Bolger Nymph which I had built at an earlier time.

My Bolger Nymph a long time ago

The Nymph sail was of a suitable area, and I set it as a boomed lateen, and that configuration has worked very well on the canoe.

Recent photo of my MacGregor on Atkinsons Lagoon. The rig should be hoisted higher on the mast

Steering is carried out using foot-pedals attached to lines which run to the rudder yoke,  to which I also have a "push-pull" tiller attached.

A few weeks ago, my son, David, and I went for a sail on nearby Lake Wivenhoe. Dave was sailing his much modified Janette which he built for himself at age 14,  (you can read about the boat here http://rosslillistonewoodenboat.blogspot.com.au/2013/03/whimbrel-developments.html ) and I was sailing the  MacGregor. Unfortunately the wind was almost non-existent, but towards the end of the day we got enough to allow Dave to re-familiarise himself with the sailing canoe. Here are a few pictures: -


Although the water was glassy, you can still see that the boat is making some progress due to good technique and careful  sail-setting.

Despite being cooked in our Australian sun, Dave looks content!
The leeboard is ballasted with enough lead to give it neutral buoyancy, and  is held by a strong lanyard above the handle. There is a leeboard guard attached to the hull planking so that the sideways pressure from the sail pushes the board hard against the guard, which is parallel to the centreline of the boat. The leeboard is asymmetrical in section, with a flat outer face and a cambered inner face, which helps it develop lift to windward. When tacking, the leeboard is lifted, turned around so the cambered face will still face inwards, and dropped on the other side. 

A good shot of the boats trim under sail.

It is important to get crew weight to windward - even in light conditions .

Being able to use the paddle under the sail is a great advantage.

Here is a video shot by Paul Hernes when he and I were at a Wooden Boat Association meet on Lake Wivenhoe. I was sailing the canoe, and Paul was filming from his Phoenix III. When you hear him making a comment about fences, he was pointing out that we were approaching the shore, where there was an old fence from an abandoned cattle property poking up through the water! In the video you can see how fast the little boat is - despite the wind noise in the camera mike, the wind was very light at the time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK-4NZrvcZ4

A sailing canoe is such an easy thing to build, store, and transport that I encourage everybody to have a go. You will learn a lot about sailing in a short time, and the costs are minimal.
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Simple aluminum boat plans Guide

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Info Simple boat building plans free

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Simple boat plans pdf

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Simple plywood rowboat plans

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Simple boat building plans

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